Thursday, April 7, 2016

Sandusky Tool Company - Panel Plow Planes

Folks, the flurry of comments (ok, two) on my blog has inspired the first post of 2016. Robert M., thanks for your question on the Plow planes to get us started.

Today we are going to discuss the joy of owning a Sandusky Tool Company Panel Plow Plane (STCPPP?!?). I picked up a 132 Boxwood, with Handle a few years back and it came with all 8 original irons. Here she is in all of her grubby glory.
Still dirty as I found her, just a light wax...

 I picked up my 132 with 8 irons for a low bid in an online auction - I can't remember if it was MJD or Browns.
Very often I see these with the upside down stamp. Any ideas why?

There are great little details that just aren't found on many tools today. Check out the knurling on the wooden nuts.

These are probably the most well known of Sandusky planes, and the rarer, more ornate center-wheels have fetched a pretty penny. Brown Tool Auctions sold a Presentation Center Wheel for just under$115K.

In both catalogs (1877 and 1925) the plow planes share the range of 116 to 143. The full range can be divided in the following subgroups:


  1. 116-124: Beech planes, 2 threaded arms, some with fancier wood for arms or fence
  2. 125-137: Boxwood/Rosewood/Ebony planes, 2 threaded arms
  3. 137-143: Boxwood/Rosewood/Ebony planes, Center Wheel (AKA Self-Regulating)


From a hand-tool user standpoint, there are great values to be had in the first range, although planes in excellent condition can still fetch more than a new Veritas Plow plane. The second range has a good mix of user planes and collectibles on the open market, again driven mostly by condition. The third range generally run into the thousands for nice specimens.

For a decent user, make sure the threads are still intact enough to be locked down anywhere in their full range. Check the fence for warping; the best case is perfectly straight, although you can work around a bow as long as its toward the blade. A cup towards the blade can mess up the beginning and end of your cut. I also recommend a handled model, as they are a little more comfortable to use for a longer session.

If purchasing for more than just a user - look for all irons to have matching patina, an original and fitting wedge, no cracks in the handle or horn of the handle, free movement of the wood screws/ fittings, and proper patina on all screws - especially those attaching the fence. These can be freshly stripped if the seller pieced things together from different planes. Purchasing an expensive center-wheel is probably best left to expert collectors, and is beyond my hands on experience.

The good news is (for buyers, anyway) is that the market for the 3rd tier of planes had been soft lately, and I recall seeing a few plow planes go for well under their estimated value in recent auctions. There is no time like the present to blow your grandkids inheritance on a glorified chunk of wood.

One very important note - Boxwood can react with anti-rust paper, also known as VCI (Volatile Corrosion Inhibitor) paper or wraps. While this stuff is wonderful for storing your metal tools, it will permanently stain old boxwood.

Here's a more detailed breakdown for the Type A guys and gals out there. Some notes on the table:
  • Where no wood is listed for the Fence or Handle, it matches the main body material
  • Boxed Fences have a strip of boxwood inlaid into the main fence material
  • STC did many custom jobs in the Plow Plane range and sold 5 types of arms separately, so you can run across a harlequin now and then - this will not affect usability but could impact its value as a collectible

#MaterialIronsStopArmsFenceHandleIvory TipSelf Regulating
116Beech4wood
117Beech8screw
118Beech8screwBoxed
119Beech8screwYes
120Beech8screwBoxedYes
121Beech8screwBoxwood
122Beech8screwBoxwoodBoxed
123Beech8screwBoxwoodYes
124Beech8screwBoxwoodBoxedYes
125Apple8screwBoxedYes
126Apple8screwBoxwood
127Apple8screwBoxwoodBoxed
128Apple8screwBoxwoodYes
129Apple8screwBoxwoodBoxedYes
130Box or Rose8screw
131Box or Rose8screwYes
132Box or Rose8screwYes
133Box or Rose8screwYesYes
134Ebony8screw
135Ebony8screwYes
136Ebony8screwYes
137Ebony8screwYesYes
138Box or Rose8screwYes
139Box or Rose8screwYesYes
140Box or Rose8screwYesYes
141Box or Rose8screwYesYesYes
142Ebony8screwYesYes
143Ebony8screwYesYesYes


Well Folks, thanks for making it through another long winded post. I have a few more in the pipeline, including a full rundown on all the un-handled Filletster planes.

I know, the anticipation is killing you - until next time,

Chris


6 comments:

  1. I noticed that some of the plough planes have a lock for the depth adjustment and some do not. I have seen this on basic 119's and more elaborate ebony/rosewood/boxwood models. I'm wondering if it can be used to narrow down the date of manufacture.

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  2. Hello, My father has a couple planes that we believe were made by Sandusky. Would it be possible to contact you to get some info?
    Thanks, Roger

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  4. I have a question and I hope you know the answer. Why do most plane makers go to the upper teens in pairs of hollows and rounds, and STC only goes to 9 with its basic set, then only to 15 with the other? Also can you tell me when the name stamp form changed from straight to the scroll? Thanks Wayne Hall

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    1. There are two cases that I know of where the numbering is higher than Sandusky/Ohio Tools. First is the British system, which ran 1-18, but started smaller, 1/16th/inch instead of 1/4; their 18 was only 1 1/2 inches, which is equivalent to a Sandusky 11. The second case is Chapin-Stephens and Greenfield which had the same sizes as Sandusky but only used Even numbers, so they ran 2-30 instead of 1-15.

      In terms of the stamp change, I don't have exact dates - Sandusky used a total of 13 stamps during their lifetime. I think you're right in the sequence, but I'm unsure if there was overlap in the two being used, a clean switch, etc. Sorry I couldn't be of more help!

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  5. Hello - I've apparently inherited the Sandusky # 164, a sash moulding plane that is near fine/very good condition. It's had limited use and is in working order as the wood knobs/screws, corresponding wood nuts and beechwood body are all tight and the plane irons look to be near original length. Not interested in selling, though I am interested in its desirability in collecting, and its value as an early moulder. Thanks very much for any feedback.

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